Swiss Snow Globe
Train travel in snowy Switzerland
(Written January 18, 2023)
I got up this morning and checked the weather all over Switzerland, and it’s pretty much snowy and cold everywhere. Okay, knew how to dress. Got myself out the door and to the train station. Now where to go?
This kind of travel I do, where I’m exploring the planet, means that I’m not planning. I’m not trying to check places off my list. Instead, I’m exploring, choosing where to go to next, moment to moment, seeing what I see, finding whatever I find. I’m reminded of my exploration as a child, when I’d leave the house in the morning, go meandering most of the day, and come home when I was hungry. Now, as an adult living in Switzerland, my playground is a bit bigger, and I don’t have to go home when I’m hungry. Discovering delicious food is now a big part of my exploration and savoring of life!
Sometimes I follow sunshine, other times my mood for whether to be in German, French or Italian speaking CH. (How fortunate am I?) Sometimes I just look at the next trains leaving and jump on whichever one calls. Today was like that.
First I got a coffee at my favorite spot (Thai Urban Kitchen) at the Basel train station. Good reasonably priced coffee, now available in Kooky1 cups, and a yummy pain au chocolate, and I was off.
I saw that I had just missed one of the trains I was considering which was going toward Domodossola - had considered that one for the views. Saw that on the other track was one leaving for Zurich - which I do want to explore more of soon, but wasn’t feeling it for that train (which probably was full of commuters as plenty of people live in Basel and work in Zurich). Across the way I saw a double decker train and sure enough, it called me. I like sitting up high, knew it was probably a regional train which means not too crowded. Perfect.
Got over to that track and found it was going to Luzern, always beautiful, and I was eager to see it in the snow. About an hour later, I had enjoyed my breakfast, meditated, caught up on a couple of things and headed into town. Where to go? One way I like to explore is to pick a place to go without it really being about the place - but more about the journey or seeing the neighborhood around. I love second hand shops, so today that was my guide. Found one that intrigued, and jumped on the bus2 to head toward it. I knew I would arrive before it opened, but that was no problem. I just wanted to pick a place to get me out and exploring. I decided to stay on the bus past the second hand store stop partially to see a bit more but mostly because it was warm and cozy in the bus. I rode to the end of line, waited one minute, and stayed on for the return journey. By the time I arrived at the second hand store, it was open.
And then what? Then I walked by a cafe that looked like a comfy old living room. I walked past it, then back again, peeked in through the window, then finally in. Old chairs in different colors, cupcakes, coffee, some food, cozy and charming. I had another coffee and proceeded to work on stuff (like this newsletter).
The cafe is called Pinakarri. The balconies across the street are calling me; I want to run my hand along the one with beautifully ornate ironwork as I sip on a morning coffee or an evening glass of wine. I’ll have to be satisfied with gazing from here. Through big snowflakes I see colors of Bern green3, chartreuse, pink, yellow and yellow brick. I realize I am looking out through my own snow globe.
As I was working I overheard the owner speaking to other customers. The cafe is donation based. You come, order what you want, pay what you want. Nothing or lots. All the employees are volunteers, so they need only cover their overhead of rent, supplies and upkeep. The small menu changes daily, and they offer good organic coffee and all seasonal, local products. OF COURSE I LANDED HERE! 4 Then I asked about the name.
Pinakarri is a word from the Nyangamurta Aboriginal people of the north west of Western Australia. Translated as "deep listening" it literally means "ears stand" as when a kangaroo focuses attention on a sound - listening with full attention. 5
Next, I was ready for lunch. I found a Peruvian restaurant called Pikante online, and was happy to discover it was a two minute walk from the cafe. I’ve never had Peruvian cuisine in Switzerland, so was eager to give it a try. I was the only one there, but my intuition said go for it. And, my intuition was absolutely on track. When the menu first came I saw unusual offerings which I had hoped for. The prices seemed higher than I’m used to in Basel, but I had noticed that prices were higher in general in Luzern. I was hungry, and, wanting to try a couple of things, so ordered two appetizers.
Honestly when they first came, I thought they looked small and I thought I might be left disappointed and hungry. But no. The Yucas Fritas were tasty and filling, and the sea bass, excellent! Combined with a Peruvian blended white wine = happy mouth, happy experience.
I asked to speak with the chef and he was delightful. His name is Emilio and he’s lived all over Central and South America and was now happy to be offering this cuisine in Luzern. They are full at night, but just getting going with their lunch service. I wish him all the best and do hope it’s “discovered” for lunch. And, I’m happy to have been there before! What a lovely meal, lovely experience.
Now I’m on a panoramic train to Interlaken. Back in my snow globe, looking out onto this incredible planet and loving life. I hadn’t traveled for a while, and am so glad to be back at it. It’s been another magical day.
As I was learning about the word, Pinakarri, I immediately began thinking about two friends who also write for Substack. If you like words and language, then I strongly recommend you grab a cuppa something good and go explore their newsletters. for adding smiles and vocabulary to your life and for super supportive tips to get you started and/or keep you on your language learning journey.
Enjoy!
Kooky provides a sustainable solution - buy your coffee in cups that are recycled, reusable and kind to the planet.
I travel using a Day Pass or Tageskarte. With this type of pass in Switzerland, not only can you travel anywhere by train, most trams and busses are also included, all over the country. I strongly recommend you consider this kind of travel when visiting too!
Many buildings in Bern are a gray green color. Here’s what Rick Steves says about them, “The city, founded in 1191, has managed to avoid war damage and hasn't burned down since 1405. After that fire, wooden buildings were discouraged, and Bern gained its gray-green sandstone complexion.” https://classroom.ricksteves.com/videos/bern-capital-of-switzerland
I am a big fan of donation based business, and in fact offer two online yoga classes a week that way. If you’re interested, let me know.
https://www.pinakarri.org.au/about.html
Like I was there with you side by side listening to everything you were telling me about Switzerland.
The photos are lovely 😍
What a perfect day out. Sounds absolutely lovely. And thank you for the very kind shout-out!